Vela de las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro
This year I returned to Juchitán de Zaragoza in the Isthmus of Oaxaca, Mexico, for the third consecutive time to document the unique culture of its third gender, known as muxes.
The muxes, who often embody a fusion of masculine and feminine traits, play a significant role in Juchitán’s societal fabric. Each November, during a festival called Vela de las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro, muxes are celebrated for their contributions to various facets of life, including art, business, and social celebrations.
Through interviews and visual storytelling, each year I seek to capture the resilience, creativity, and traditions of this vibrant community- their stories reveal a rich tapestry of culture that defies rigid gender norms.
As I immersed myself in this unique culture for another year, I found new dimensions to their experiences. Conversations revealed themes of love, acceptance, and the ongoing struggles against societal discrimination. The muxes not only embody diversity but also challenge traditional concepts of gender and identity, making them a powerful symbol of the broader LGBTQIA+ movement.
Witnessing their bold expressions of self through attire, art, and activism was truly inspiring. Each visit strengthens my commitment to amplifying their voices, ensuring that the stories of muxes continue to resonate beyond the borders of Juchitán, enriching the discourse around gender identity and expression in a global context.
This journey has reaffirmed my belief in the importance of documenting and sharing stories that might otherwise remain unheard. The muxes of Juchitán are more than just a cultural phenomenon; they are a testament to the beauty of diversity and the enduring spirit of community.
This post will be mostly focused on the visual part of this year’s visit. If you would like to learn more about the culture or how I ended up exploring it, you can read a more extensive article HERE.
Regada De Frutas
Regada De Frutas during a muxe vela is a vibrant Zapotec tradition symbolizing generosity, abundance, and community. Muxes shower the crowd with fruits and household gifts. This symbolizes abundance, generosity, and sharing of resources within the community.
The lavish float of Estrella Vasquez, known as the first muxe to be on the cover of British and Mexican Vogue in 2019.
A muxe matriarch Felina marches through the streets during Regada De Frutas.
Women accompanying this year’s mayordomo carrying gladiolus flowers as offerings to Saint Vincent Ferrer. In Mexican traditions, gladiolus symbolize strength, integrity, and remembrance. The vibrant blooms are presented to the saint as a gesture of gratitude for the well-being and protection of the muxe community. This beautiful act intertwines faith, culture, and identity, honoring resilience and gratitude within the community.
La Misa
La Misa is the church mass during the Vela de las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro that holds deep cultural and spiritual significance. The mass is a way for participants to honor and seek blessings from the divine, paying homage to their unique identities, their community, and their loved ones.
This celebration is deeply rooted in the Zapotec tradition, where muxes—people who identify outside the binary gender system—are recognized and celebrated as integral members of society. The mass represents a moment of spiritual reflection and gratitude, acknowledging the muxes’ contributions while asking for strength and protection in the face of societal challenges.
By including this religious component, the vela bridges the muxes’ cultural identity with broader spiritual traditions, symbolizing a harmonious coexistence of indigenous and Catholic practices. It underscores the muxes’ resilience and pride while affirming their connection to their community and faith.
Spectators outside of La Misa. The mass is held in a small church unable to host a large crowd that gathers to witness it.
The looks at the mass vary from traditional to extravagant. On the last photo is this year’s queen Naomi Méndez.
After the mass, the procession of muxes moves through the streets of Juchitán before the night’s big celebration- La Vela itself.
La Vela
In 2025, Vela de las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro will celebrate its 50th anniversary, marking five decades of bravery, resilience, and empowerment within the LGBTQIA+ community. This organization has carved a unique path, honoring the spirit of those who dare to live authentically and unapologetically.
The vela started off as a small private celebration in 1975. Today it is a huge event drawing thousands of visitors from all over the world. This year I met more people from the US then ever before.
Over the years, Vela has evolved to include numerous programs, workshops, and community events that foster creativity and activism among its members. The annual anniversary celebration not only highlights achievements and shared experiences but also recharges the collective commitment to advocacy and change.
Mistica is one of the most well-known muxes in the community, there is even a street named after her in Juchitán.
This is me. My outfit was made by my friend Leyver who I met the first year I was visiting. I felt like the one and only total slut at the vela, until other total sluts showed up.
On the left is Red de Mujeres Lesbianas y Sexodisidentes del Istmo (Network of Lesbian Women and Sex Dissidents of the Isthmus), a local collective advocating for social and reproductive justice. On the right, in the middle, is last year’s mayordomo. Mayordomos are largely responsible for organizing and paying for all of the major expenses connected with the celebrations.
People come to La Vela dressed to the nines. The self-expression truly is a sight to behold.
Lavada De Olla
In Mexican tradition, "lavada de olla" refers to the ceremonial cleansing of clay pots, deeply rooted in cultural practices that emphasize purity, renewal, and respect for the tools that nourish families. This ritual is often performed during significant occasions, such as the beginning of a new agricultural cycle, family gatherings, or spiritual observances.
The process involves a meticulous cleaning of the olla, often using natural elements like water from a river or local spring, and sometimes incorporating herbs or flowers believed to possess purifying properties. These practices are not merely about sanitation but are infused with cultural and spiritual significance. Participants usually approach the task with a sense of reverence, viewing it as a way to bless the pot and, by extension, the food that will eventually be prepared in it.
The symbolism of lavada de olla extends to broader themes of community and connection. It is common for families to gather during this cleaning ritual, fostering bonds through shared labor and storytelling. Elders often pass down wisdom and techniques to younger generations during this time, ensuring that the tradition endures and evolves.
There is no actual washing of the pots that happens on the last day of La Vela. It’s just a smaller, more traditional La Vela that closes out the weekend of celebrations. My favorite part about it is the fireworks!
